13 travel tips for Marrakech
It’s not too early to plan a post-Covid escape and few places combine chic and sun as well as Marrakech. Here are thirteen tips from my own time exploring Morocco’s Red City.
1. For a friendly mid-price riad in a quiet part of the city, stay at Riad Haraka. It’s hidden away in a warren of residential alleys in the northern medina. We paid around $50/night for bed and breakfast. It may feel a little spooky after dark in the surrounding streets but that’s part of the charm.
2. Gardens are a great place to escape the bustle. The famous Majorelle is wonderful but a quieter oasis is Le Jardin Secret in the medina. Two gardens occupy the courtyards of an old riad. Take the tour up the tower to have a great view of the iconic Koutoubia and the city with the Atlas Mountains beyond.
3. Splurge on dinner at Dar Zellij. Start with a sunset drink on the terrace before dining on upmarket Moroccan fare to the sound of live gnaoua music. Yes, it’s a tiny bit twee and touristy but the building is spectacular and the food delicious.
4. Assume everyone is trying to scam you. This is horribly unfair to the vast majority of lovely people in Marrakech but it will help put you on your guard. One scam tried on us several times was the claim that a certain street was closed for non-Muslims because of prayers, presumably to make you feel that you needed the help — at a price — of your guide to show you another way. I imagine that this might also involve ending up at a particular shop. This scam made no sense at all — yes, only Muslims are allowed in the mosques — but the street? It obviously preys on an anxiety not to cause offence. This website has some good advice about staying savvy in Morocco.
5. Have a quick wander around the Jemma el-Fnaa square of course, but to people-watch in more relaxed surroundings, find the Place des Épices. Have dinner on one of roof terraces for a view of the Koutoubia and to experience the twilight magic of the call to prayer.
6. Escape the city and spend a day by the pool at Manzil la Tortue, basically a giant pool with loungers and gastro-food run by three French guys. You could even stay the night in one of their glamping tents.
7. Quickly learn to accept the mopeds. They swarm like wasps down every street and are very annoying. Life isn’t perfect.
8. If you tire of couscous and tagines, find Beats Burger in the souk. We found it once by accident and — such is the warren of the souk — were never able to find it again! Google Maps is sort of helpful but at some point, the medina is beyond the reach of normal cartography…
9. Have a hammam/Turkish bath. The tourist places are pricey and the baths for the locals might be a little intimidating, so ask your riad if they can arrange something. Riad Haraka does a private scrub-plus-massage up on their terrace. Ninety minutes for about £50.
10. Haggling and the souk experience are overrated. Go to the Complexe d’Artisanat in the kasbah quarter. Prices are fixed and you can browse without too much hassle.
11. Visit the El Badi palace on the southern edge of the medina. Only hints remain of what its name in Arabic means (“Palace of Wonder”) but a quiet stroll around these 16th century ruins takes you past sunken gardens, mosaic tilework (zellij), bathhouses, and various exhibitions.
12. Take a day trip. Head inland to the Atlas mountains or to the coast at Essaouira. There are plenty of tour companies who can show you around but while comfortable, you will tend to hit all of the tourist spots on route, where pressure will begin to build for you to spend your money on trinkets or yet another bar of argan oil soap. Better to rent a car and head out in the early morning to take things at your own pace.
13. Get to the airport early. You will be checked seven times (yes!) before you get on the plane.
